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Firefox: can't figure out DOM inspector / XUL

I'm just trying to make a few modifications to Firefox's UI, but it's so frustrating trying to figure out what the various elements are. Like for example I want to change the font used in the bookmark bar, but what is that? I looked at a style and there's like a thousand elements being themed, it's hopeless guessing and changing this and that and see what gets affected. So I installed the DOM inspector addon, but can't figure out how to use it.

I opened up chrome://browser/content/browser.xul, and I get a tab bar and the url/search bar, but no bookmark bar. I enable the "click node to inspect" tool, but it just seems to act like a regular click. Like I click the x button and it closes the tab. It shouldn't be this hard.

Can someone give me a few pointers? thanks

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